Here's how we name our motors - It's just a numbering system, not fancy marketing hype.  Use this to compare the motors.

Let's use the 1530/.75D (2640 KV) as our example.  1530/.75D (2640 KV) should be read as 15 | 30 | .75 | D which runs at 2,640 RPMS per volt.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

Let's talk about the last part of the code - the Kv. Kv is the voltage constant.* It represents the number of RPMs the motor will spin for each volt applied to the motor by the speed control.  A 1,000 KV motor should spin at 10,000 RPMs when 10 volts are applied. A 2,000 KV motor spins at twice the speed of a 1,000KV motor with the same voltage.  But this is at NO LOAD.  A small 2,000 KV motor may not put out anywhere near the power of a large 1,000 KV motor.  You can adjust the connection between the motor and your wheels by varying your gearing ratio to make a low KV motor spin your wheels faster than a high kv motor.

Pro Tip: The KV of a motor is determined by the number of turns of wire around the stator teeth, the length of the motor and the type of wire termination inside the motor.

*Kv in this context does not mean kilovolt. That's written as kV and you'll know it when you see it.  We aren't working with kilovolts here!!

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The first two digits are the motor's internal diameter in inches. 15 = 1.5" inches - so all 15 series are the same diameter.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The second two digits are the motor's internal length. 30 is 3.0 inches - so a 1530 is 3 inches long inside and a 1539 is 3.9 inches long inside the case. Longer motors have more power capability and more weight.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The 3rd set of digits is the number of times the internal wires are wrapped around the stator teeth. You may be familiar with the old brushed motor term of "turns." More turns means lower Kv. So 1530/.75D has .75 wraps of the wire inside the motor around the steel teeth of the stator.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The final letter refers to the internal connection of the 3 motor wires. D = Delta, the Greek letter for D that looks like a triangle. The other option is Y, and the Y wind looks like a letter Y inside.  A Delta motor will spin 1.8 times the kv of a Y motor with the same number of turns.  Change the turns in a Y motor and it will spin just as fast as a Delta with nearly identical performance.

NOTE: This system applies to the NEUMOTORS INRUNNERS.  OUTRUNNERS are the same format, but they are in metric units (MM).

For RC purposes, there is no difference, ZERO, nothing, NADA, better about a D than a Y. We use D and Y winds interchangeably to adjust the KV of the motor. Sometimes the D offers the KV we need, sometimes the Y offers the KV that we need.

"But what about timing advance?" you ask.  Timing advance in your ESC settings can slightly increase the KV of a Y wind motor.  This only works with Y wind motors, and it is only a 2 to 3%  increase in RPM. This comes at a dramatic increase in heat inside the motor.  Timing advance is the last option behind proper choice of Kv, optimizing gearing, wiring, connectors, battery C capability*,  battery temperature, tires, overall weight, front-to-back weight distribution and track surface.

"But what about timing advance on a D wind motor?"  Set the ESC to LOW or auto mode.  Timing makes no performance improvement in the system.  Changing timing for a D wind motor will negatively affect performance.

If you want a higher KV motor, just order a higher KV motor. Timing advance is only for Y wind and even then it is only a patch.

* Choose batteries carefully.  C rating is often misrepresented.  C rating is an indicator of how well the battery can deliver volts under the massive amp loads of these vehicles.  A sag of a volt or two reduces motor speed (KV times VOLTAGE) dramatically.

Here’s how we name our motors – It’s just a numbering system, not fancy marketing hype.  Use this to compare the motors.

Let’s use the 1530/.75D (2640 KV) as our example.  1530/.75D (2640 KV) should be read as 15 | 30 | .75 | D which runs at 2,640 RPMS per volt.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

Let’s talk about the last part of the code – the Kv. Kv is the voltage constant.* It represents the number of RPMs the motor will spin for each volt applied to the motor by the speed control.  A 1,000 KV motor should spin at 10,000 RPMs when 10 volts are applied. A 2,000 KV motor spins at twice the speed of a 1,000KV motor with the same voltage.  But this is at NO LOAD.  A small 2,000 KV motor may not put out anywhere near the power of a large 1,000 KV motor.  You can adjust the connection between the motor and your wheels by varying your gearing ratio to make a low KV motor spin your wheels faster than a high kv motor.

Pro Tip: The KV of a motor is determined by the number of turns of wire around the stator teeth, the length of the motor and the type of wire termination inside the motor.

*Kv in this context does not mean kilovolt. That’s written as kV and you’ll know it when you see it.  We aren’t working with kilovolts here!!

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The first two digits are the motor’s internal diameter in inches. 15 = 1.5″ inches – so all 15 series are the same diameter.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The second two digits are the motor’s internal length. 30 is 3.0 inches – so a 1530 is 3 inches long inside and a 1539 is 3.9 inches long inside the case. Longer motors have more power capability and more weight.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The 3rd set of digits is the number of times the internal wires are wrapped around the stator teeth. You may be familiar with the old brushed motor term of “turns.” More turns means lower Kv. So 1530/.75D has .75 wraps of the wire inside the motor around the steel teeth of the stator.

1530/.75D (2640 KV)

The final letter refers to the internal connection of the 3 motor wires. D = Delta, the Greek letter for D that looks like a triangle. The other option is Y, and the Y wind looks like a letter Y inside.  A Delta motor will spin 1.8 times the kv of a Y motor with the same number of turns.  Change the turns in a Y motor and it will spin just as fast as a Delta with nearly identical performance.

NOTE: This system applies to the NEUMOTORS INRUNNERS.  OUTRUNNERS are the same format, but they are in metric units (MM).

For RC purposes, there is no difference, ZERO, nothing, NADA, better about a D than a Y. We use D and Y winds interchangeably to adjust the KV of the motor. Sometimes the D offers the KV we need, sometimes the Y offers the KV that we need.

“But what about timing advance?” you ask.  Timing advance in your ESC settings can slightly increase the KV of a Y wind motor.  This only works with Y wind motors, and it is only a 2 to 3%  increase in RPM. This comes at a dramatic increase in heat inside the motor.  Timing advance is the last option behind proper choice of Kv, optimizing gearing, wiring, connectors, battery C capability*,  battery temperature, tires, overall weight, front-to-back weight distribution and track surface.

“But what about timing advance on a D wind motor?”  Don’t do it.  Just leave the ESC in auto mode.  Timing makes no performance improvement in the system.  Changing timing for a D wind motor will negatively affect performance.

If you want a higher KV motor, just order a higher KV motor. Timing advance is only for Y wind and even then it is only a patch.

* Choose batteries carefully.  C rating is often misrepresented.  C rating is an indicator of how well the battery can deliver volts under the massive amp loads of these vehicles.  A sag of a volt or two reduces motor speed (KV times VOLTAGE) dramatically.

1539/ .75D (2031kv)  is the largest of the motors and will deliver the most power on 8S depending on gearing.  It is heavier and may take more power to simply spin up the rotor.

1539/.5D (3046 KV) is the hottest KV in the largest motor for use with 6S only.

Remember, the other motors in the list may be faster depending on your vehicle setup!

TAP IMAGE FOR BEST VIEW ON PHONE

GREEN BOXES ARE BEST OPTIONS

YELLOW BOXES ARE NOT RECOMMENDED